SHIPPING NOW WITH OUR LIVESTOCK GUARANTEE! *terms & conditions apply*
03 9354 5843
SHIPPING NOW WITH OUR LIVESTOCK GUARANTEE! *terms & conditions apply*
ESTABLISHED IN 1970
Open 10am - 6pm everyday
0 Shopping Cart $0.00
CLOSE

YOUR SHOPPING CART IS CURRENTLY EMPTY

Do not hesitate. Check out our wide range of products!

Beginner Aquarium Setup: Step-by-Step

by Mia Hughson

Beginner Aquarium Setup: Step-by-Step

Setting up a new aquarium involves choosing the right size and location, installing your equipment, adding substrate and water, then cycling the tank before any fish go in. Done in order, the hands-on setup takes about an hour, followed by a 4–6 week wait while the tank cycles.

1. Choosing the Right Tank Size

Bigger tanks are actually easier for beginners than small ones — more water means water quality changes more slowly, giving you more room for error while you're learning. A 60–100 litre tank is a realistic beginner starting point; anything much smaller than that leaves very little margin if something goes wrong.


2. Where to Position Your Aquarium

● Out of direct sunlight, which drives algae growth and temperature swings

● Away from doors, heaters, and air conditioning vents, which cause temperature fluctuation

● On a stand rated for the tank's full weight when filled (water weighs roughly 1kg per litre, plus substrate and decorations)

● Near a power point, for your filter, heater, and lighting


3. Equipment You Will Need

● Aquarium and a stand rated for its filled weight

● Filter, sized appropriately for the tank's volume

● Heater (for tropical setups) and a reliable thermometer

● Substrate (gravel or sand), rinsed before use

● Water conditioner / dechlorinator

● Lighting, ideally on a timer

● A liquid master test kit for monitoring water quality


4. Step-by-Step Setup Instructions

1. Position the tank on its stand in its final location — it is very difficult to move once filled.

2. Rinse and add substrate, spreading it evenly across the base.

3. Add hardscape and decorations before filling, so you can arrange them without wet hands.

4. Fill with dechlorinated water, pouring slowly over a plate or decoration to avoid disturbing the substrate.

5. Install the filter and heater, following the manufacturer's placement guidance.

6. Add lighting and set a timer for a consistent day/night cycle.

7. Run the equipment for 24–48 hours before doing anything else, to confirm the heater holds a stable temperature and the filter runs cleanly.

8. Begin cycling the tank — this is the step most beginners skip, and the one that matters most.

9. Test the water regularly throughout the cycling period.

10. Add fish gradually, only once testing confirms the tank is fully cycled.


5. Product Picks for Your First Tank

Filter: match flow rate to tank litres, not just tank size on the box — aim for the filter to turn over the full volume 4–6 times per hour.

Heater: roughly 1 watt per litre as a starting point, more in a cold room or draughty spot.

Substrate: fine gravel or sand for community fish; specific substrates for planted tanks.

Water conditioner: keep on hand for every water change, not just setup day.

Test kit: a liquid master kit is more accurate and cheaper long-term than test strips.

● Lighting: a basic timer-run LED is enough for a first fish-only tank; planted tanks need brighter, longer-running lights.

Ask in-store for sizing help matched to your exact tank dimensions — the right size filter and heater make far more difference to success than the specific brand.


6. Common Beginner Mistakes

● Adding fish on day one, before the tank has cycled — the most common and costly mistake.

● Undersized filters or heaters for the tank's actual volume.

● Placing the tank in direct sunlight, leading to early algae blooms.

● Using an unrated stand or surface, risking the tank's weight over time.

● Skipping water conditioner, leaving chlorine or chloramine in the water.


7. Your First Month: Maintenance Tips

● Test water every 2–3 days while cycling, then weekly once fish are in.

● Top up water lost to evaporation with dechlorinated water, not straight from the tap.

● Keep a simple log of your readings — it makes spotting problems early much easier.

● Resist buying fish on impulse before the tank is ready; bring your test results in-store if you want a second opinion.

● Wipe down the glass and check equipment is running quietly and correctly each week.


8. Choosing Beginner-Friendly Fish

Once your tank has cycled, it helps to go in with a shortlist rather than picking on the spot. Hardy, easy-going community species that suit a beginner's first stocking list include neon and ember tetras, platies, guppies, corydoras catfish, and bristlenose catfish. Avoid mixing fin-nippers with long-finned species, and always check adult size and temperament before adding anything to a community tank — ask in-store if you are unsure what will get along. Steer clear of anything described as “aggressive,” “large,” or “territorial” for a first community tank, and avoid schooling species in groups smaller than five or six, since they tend to become stressed and skittish on their own.


9. Where to Get Help Along the Way

Setting up a tank correctly the first time is far easier with a second opinion. Bring a water sample in-store at any stage — during cycling, before adding fish, or if something looks off — and our staff can test it

and talk through next steps with you. There is no such thing as a silly question when you are starting out, and it is far cheaper to ask before a problem develops than to replace fish or equipment after the fact.


10. Frequently Asked Questions


How long before I can add fish to a new tank?

Typically 4–6 weeks, once the tank has fully cycled. Testing your water is the only reliable way to know — not the calendar.


Can I use tap water straight from the tap?

Only after treating it with a water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine, both of which are harmful to fish and to the beneficial bacteria your tank needs.


Do I need a heater if I am keeping cold-water fish?

No — cold-water species like goldfish do not need a heater, but most tropical community fish do, and a stable temperature is one of the most important factors in a healthy tank.


What size tank is best for a beginner?

Larger than you might expect — 60–100 litres gives you far more stability and margin for error than a small nano tank, despite seeming like more commitment upfront.


How many fish can I add at once?

Only a few at a time, even in a fully cycled tank — adding too many together can spike ammonia faster than the bacteria colony can handle.


Should I feed fish on the first day I add them?

Wait until the next day, and feed lightly at first — new arrivals are often stressed from transport and will not eat much regardless.


11. Beginner Aquarium Setup Checklist

Equipment to Buy

☐ Aquarium & rated stand

☐ Filter (sized to tank volume)

☐ Heater (tropical setups)

☐ Thermometer

☐ Substrate (gravel or sand)

☐ Water conditioner

☐ Lighting + timer

☐ Liquid master test kit

☐ Decorations / plants

☐ Fish food (for later)

Setup Day

☐ Tank positioned in final spot

☐ Substrate rinsed & added

☐ Decorations placed

☐ Water added & conditioned

☐ Filter & heater installed

☐ Lighting connected & timed

☐ Equipment run-in (24–48 hrs)

Before Adding Fish

☐ Tank fully cycled (see Cycling Guide)

☐ Fish species researched & compatible

☐ Fish added gradually, few at a time

by Mia Hughson